There are three
types of people who visit the Tsukiji wholesale fish market :
(a) those who
can't be bothered waking up so early. They choose to visit the fish market after
9am when the action is mostly over
(b) those who
are able to defy all odds to wake up and get one of the 120
first-come-first-served tickets to the two must-see tuna auctions at 5.25am and
5.50am
(c) those who
are able to defy all odds to wake up but fail to get the ticket to the tuna
auction.
Unfortunately, I belonged to
the last category. Despite waking up at an ungodly hour of 4am, I was faced with
the disappointing truth that all tickets were given out when I arrived at
4.50am. So sad because I am not usually a rise and shine girl. It was probably
going to be the only day in 2014 that I woke up at such a freaking time. Damage:
irreplaceable restorative beauty sleep, disappointing truth that hard work
doesn't pay off, and ¥1000 (~S$12) taxi fare (trains don't run before
6am).
So I took a walk in Tsukiji
market at 5am, and snapped some pictures before a uniformed security guard
rushed to us to inform us that the market is not open for visitors until after
9am.
They used these small and
nimble motorised vehicles to move around in the market and transport the freshly
caught seafood!
Glorious seafood as fresh as
you can get. Freshly caught by hardworking fishermen in the wee hours of
morning while we were still in zzz-land.
Really huge
tuna!
I love scallops. They are my
favourite!
A sushi breakfast at Tsukiji
is a must per Lonely Planet. At 5.15am, the queues outside the famous Sushi
Dai restaurant and it's next-door neighbor
Sushi Daiwa were already formed. Sushi Dai had a much longer queue which
continued at the corner of the block after skipping a shop (the photo below
doesn't show the end of the queue). I kept in mind the wisdom of a colleague who
said Sushi Dai was not worth the time queuing, hence I queued for Sushi Daiwa
instead. And got in after 20 min after the first round of customers completed
their omakase style sushi breakfast.
|
How come these people no need to
sleep? |
The sushi is served omakase
style, which means "leave it to the chef". Meaning the sushi chef makes whatever
sushi he wants (ok I think it's based on what are the fresh seafood available
that day), and you just eat. The sushi is served with wasabi inside the rice and
glazed with soya sauce. At 5am, you can expect fresh seafood that was caught
just hours before you woke up on the day itself.
Our chef today. With his
limited mix of English and Mandarin, he's still quite entertaining. Kept asking
us if it's oiishi (delicious in Japanese).
In no order of preference but
in the precise order they were served, I present to you the best
sushi of my life:
Toro (tuna) - Very fresh
piece that's worthy to be my first bite of the day. It melts!
At that moment I was
thinking, "Damn the start is already so good."
|
Toro (tuna) |
Squid - Yup it is as fresh,
smooth and chewy as it looks.
|
Squid |
Prawn - Per chef, this was
still alive when served!
|
Prawn |
Sea urchin (uni) - The world
changed when I put this in my mouth!!! The creamy sweet uni just melts. You
know, like melts. I thought the entire ocean was inside my
mouth.
|
Sea urchin (uni) |
Tuna and Ikura (roe) rolls -
I love the Ikura roll which was sweet.
|
Tuna (left), Ikura (right) |
Prawn head - Which was fried
and omg it was so good and fragrant and crispy.
|
Prawn head |
Otoro (medium fat tuna) -
Best tuna ever. The fats disintegrated automatically in my mouth. Enuff
said.
Kampachi (yellow tail
fish)
|
Kampachi (left), Otoro
(right) |
Sea eel - This also just
disintegrated automatically into bliss. Best eel ever. Enuff
said.
|
Sea eel |
Tamago (egg) - Soft, fluffy
and fragrant
|
Tamago (egg) |
Hotate (scallop) - this was
the extra sushi that we ordered, at the recommendation of our chef. Freshest
scallop ever.
|
Hotate (scallop) |
Akagai (clam) - chef keep
saying it is "action". This was also still alive when
presented.
|
Akagai (clam) |
Hot green tea and fish clam
miso soup were served.
The meal ended at 6.15am. I
paid ¥4,200 (~ S$50). Thanks to the weakening Yen.
At the end, I asked myself
why I visited Sushi Daiwa. Because after that fateful day, sushi will never be
the same again. Every piece represented the freshest form of seafood I had ever
ate. The chef asked me to come back the next day. I told chef next
year.
I went back to the hotel,
with the prawn and the clam fighting each other in my tummy. Not sure who won
but it must have been a tiring fight because I fell into food coma after
that.
Sushi Daiwa
(大和寿司)
Tsukiji Market Part 6
Building, 5-2-1
Opening hours : 5am to
1pm
Nearest train station:
Tsukijishijo station